8/28/2019 / In Timepieces
Tudor watches are having a moment in American culture. With their close association to other watch brands, they have garnered a following stateside among the watch enthusiast culture. Since their reintroduction to American shores in 2013, the Tudor brand has become identifiable with classic heritage design. The comeback story for this brand is truly a tale worth telling another time. Among the most significant of the Tudor timepieces is the Black Bay line. Based on classic dive watch styling with steel cases and easily legible dials, the Black Bay line has progressed to offer chronograph and date complications. Emerging from the historically dive-focused lineup of watches, the Black Bay Chronograph Steel and Gold merges the classic 80s trend of steel and gold into a modern production with an exceptional style that presents a daily wear chronograph timepiece.
Powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5813 self-winding mechanical movement, the Black Bay Chronograph Steel and Gold is COSC certified and maintains a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The MT5813 is an in-house caliber based on the Breitling B-01 to which a free-sprung adjustable mass balance and silicon balance spring have been added by Tudor. The movement utilizes a vertical clutch, which means that when the pusher is engaged the second-hand does not “jump” but instead sweeps across the dial. On every level, this Tudor is designed and brought to life like any other, with exceptional attention to detail and finishing at an approachable price point. The 41mm steel case is polished and satin-finished. The fixed bezel in matte black with gold details complements the black dial. The two chronograph dials are placed at three and nine o’clock and sit in contrast to the black dial with their matte gold dial with black markings. While it could be easy to assume this is a re-introduction of 80s steel and gold styling, the contrast of the matte black and satin gold feels decidedly modern and fresh.
The crown, screw-down pushers, bezel, and center bracelet links are all gold. The appearance is striking but notable that not enough gold is used to drastically alter the weight of the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Steel and Gold, allowing it to wear like the Black Bay Chronograph. While the crown is mostly gold, a small stainless-steel tube is used inside the crown because solid gold would not work for the delicate threading inside the crown. Water resistance to 200m denotes the dive watch credentials of the Black Bay line, making the Steel and Gold a dive-focused watch that happens to have a chronograph. Designed with the modern 2019 audience in mind, the restrained look of the steel and gold provides an approachable foray to this two-tone trend. Whether you are looking for a new timepiece or to capitalize on the “old is new” trend that seems to recycle every few decades, the Tudor Black Bay Steel and Gold Chronograph is a solid choice from a renown manufacturer. The details are all there and whether it’s 1980 or 2020, this watch is decidedly cool.